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Wednesday, 10 January 2007

Up Helly Aa!

ImageUp Helly Aa is Shetland’s biggest fire festival and is held on the last Tuesday of January (Old Yule) in Lerwick, although there are similar events held in other parts of Shetland between January and March.
This fire festival developed from an earlier Shetland tradition of "guizing", or dressing up. The culminating event of the buring of a viking galley did not take place until 1889. During the 1800s the young men of Lerwick embarked upon a drunken parade through Lerwick rolling burning barrels of tar and getting local businesses to contribute to the drink fund.
These were often disaffected young men returning home from wars, downtrodden and demoralised. Alchohol still plays a part in the event today, yet everyone remains in fine spirit throughout. What good traditional folk celebration  doesn't involve drink? All those I've come across do, or maybe I'm just attracted to the ones that do? Anyway back to the story...
The Victorian powers that be were required to calm things down a bit and the current festival was developed which evolved into the Viking theme today. Bearing in mind The Shetland connection to Scandinavia it was not surprising. According to my quick and dirty research the term "Up Helly Aa" was first used in the 1870s. The celebration  just kept growing in size. The first Viking Galley (Longboat) was used in 1889.   It’s an amazing sight to see and takes an incredible amount of organising, all year apparently, much of it done in secrecy, especially which Norse character the head of the festival, Guizer Jarl, will be.

Image Up Helly Aa is organised by a committee. Up to 1,000 guizers and 49 squads take part in the procession through the street. It is only the Jarl's squad that has a Viking theme. The rest, and this is where the fun starts choose from any number of influences from politicians, pop bands, TV personalities...you get the picture.
The day kicks off with the signing of a "Bill" by the Guizer Jarl, after which it is placed on the market cross. After this he shouts "Up Helly Aa" and he proceeds to give a  speech reminding everyone of events from the past year.  These will normally include embarassing moments for some of those present. It's all very light-hearted, but you don't want to have received too much public attention during the last twelve months.

ImageShortly after this, and a quick dram, the procession starts its way through the streets with the galley. Traditional songs are sung throughout the day. The galley eventually ends up at the harbour. By early evening the Guizer Jarl can be seen marching with his squad in their grand viking regalia through the vast ranks of the other squads. Torches are then lit and he leads the procession off through the streets.
The streets are packed to capacity as the galley makes it's way to a park. Here it is laid to rest and after marching around the galley to the "Galley Song" the Guizer Jarl calls for three cheers, after which a bugel is sounded and all 1000 torches are thrown onto the galley to the sound of "The Norseman's Theme".
ImageAs with most festivals of this kind this marks the start of the real celebration for the islnders present. There is plenty to drink at the 13 halls throughout Lerwick, each of which has a host and hostess to welcome all. All the squads get to visit each hall which can be amusing (13 halls folks! That's a lot of beer!) 
This is a great Island celebration at time when the nights are long and cold. It is this type of folk tradition that holds communities together, something we seem to be losing sight of today. 

 

Politics and Viking Beards

Tavish Scott, the Scottish transport minister, is so passionate about Up Helly Aa, the annual Viking "fire festival" in his native Shetland, that he is growing a beard especially to look the part for the event. His emerging facial hair is already drawing comments from fellow Scottish MPs as a departure from his usual suave appearance. He has been honoured with a place in the Jarl Squad and facial hair is a strict requirement.
 
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